Monitor Flicker Test: Check Your Screen for PWM Flicker

If your eyes ache or your head pounds after screen time, your display's backlight may be pulsing hundreds of times per second. This page shows you how to test any monitor, laptop, or phone for that pulsing (PWM flicker) at home, no lab gear required.

Last updated: July 5, 2026

The short version. The one home test that actually works is your phone's slow-motion camera. Lower the screen to about 20% brightness, film it in slow motion, and look for rolling dark bands. Bands mean the light output is flickering, most often PWM. Confirm your exact model against lab measurements. Everything else on this page is a supporting check or a way to confirm the numbers.

Test 1: The slow-motion camera method (the reliable one)

A camera's sensor scans line by line, much faster than your eye refreshes. When a backlight pulses on and off, the camera captures the on and off moments as bright and dark stripes. Your eye smooths those out. The camera does not. That is why this is the definitive home test.

  1. Drop the brightness to about 20%. PWM is deepest at low brightness because the backlight is dark for more of each cycle. Testing dim gives you the best chance of catching it.
  2. Open slow-motion, not normal video. Switch your camera to its slow-motion mode and choose the highest frame rate available. Faster capture catches faster flicker.
  3. Fill the frame with white. Open a blank white document or page on the screen under test, then hold the phone 20 to 30 cm away so the white fills the view.
  4. Record a few seconds, then play it back slowly. Watch for horizontal dark bands rolling up or down the image. Bands that move through the frame are the signature of a pulsing backlight.
  5. Climb the brightness ladder. Repeat at 50% and 100%. If the bands are strong at 20%, weaker at 50%, and gone at 100%, that is textbook PWM whose duty cycle rises with brightness.

Per-phone camera guidance

Any recent phone works. Higher frame rates catch higher-frequency flicker, so use the fastest mode you have.

PhoneBest mode to use
iPhoneSlow-mo at 240 fps (Settings, then Camera, then Record Slo-mo). Reliable up to a few hundred Hz.
Samsung GalaxySuper Slow-mo (up to 960 fps in short bursts) or standard 240 fps slow-mo. Use the fastest available.
Google PixelSlow-mo up to 240 fps in the camera app's Motion or Slow-motion mode.
Any phone with a Pro or Manual modeSkip slow-mo and set a fast shutter speed, for example 1/1000 s or faster. A fast shutter makes PWM banding sharp even in a normal photo.
Honest limit. A clean slow-motion clip does not prove zero flicker. A 240 fps camera reliably reveals PWM up to a few hundred Hz, but it can miss very high-frequency PWM above roughly 1 kHz. That high range is the kind most people tolerate, so a clean clip is good news either way. For a hard number, use the measured databases below.

What the stripes mean

Reading the result is straightforward once you know what you are looking at:

What you see in slow motionWhat it means
Strong dark bands rolling through the frame, worse when you lower brightnessLow-frequency PWM. This is the type most likely to cause headaches and eye strain in sensitive people.
Faint, fast bands only visible at the dimmest settingHigher-frequency or shallow PWM. Usually tolerable, but worth noting if you are sensitive.
A clean, even image at every brightnessDC dimming or high-frequency PWM. The backlight is effectively steady.

Test 2: The pencil test (quick check)

No slow-motion mode handy? Use a pen. In a dark room, turn the screen to a bright white image, hold a pen a few inches in front of it, and wave it quickly side to side. A steady display blurs the pen into one smooth streak. A pulsing display strobes it into several separate, ghostly copies, one for each flash of the backlight. It is not a measurement, but it is a fast yes-or-no hint before you reach for the camera.

Test 3: On-screen motion pattern (with a caveat)

The pattern below moves a bright bar across a dark strip. In a dim room, stare at one edge and let your eyes flick across to follow the bar. On a steady display it blurs into a smooth trail. On a pulsing display it can break into separate copies, the same stroboscopic effect as the pencil test.

Read this before trusting it. A software pattern cannot directly reveal backlight PWM. It runs at your display's refresh rate and only exposes how your eyes track motion, plus your panel's sample-and-hold behavior. Multiple copies here are a hint, not proof. If you want to know whether your backlight is actually pulsing, use the slow-motion camera method above. That is the honest, reliable test.

Confirm with measured data

Two independent labs measure display flicker with photodiodes and publish the numbers, so you can look up your exact model instead of guessing:

  • RTINGS monitor image flicker test measures flicker frequency at different backlight levels and flags whether a monitor is flicker-free.
  • NotebookCheck PWM database ranks hundreds of laptops, phones, and tablets by measured PWM frequency. It notes that frequencies above roughly 500 Hz are generally fine for most people, while problems cluster below about 250 Hz.

If you cannot find your model, the camera test plus the brightness ladder is a solid substitute.

You found flicker. Now what?

If your screen pulses and you are sensitive to it, you have three honest options, ranked by how reliably they work:

  1. Switch to flicker-free hardware. A display with DC dimming or measured PWM above 1,000 Hz is the durable fix. See our guide to flicker-free monitors.
  2. Keep hardware brightness high, dim with software. Since PWM is worst at low brightness, keep the backlight near full and use a software overlay to darken the image instead. This avoids the deep low-brightness pulsing.
  3. Raise brightness and soften the room. A free partial fix: nudge brightness up and add gentle ambient light so the screen does not need to blind you.

For the full background on why low-frequency PWM causes symptoms, who is most sensitive, and how OLED and LCD differ, read our PWM flicker and headaches hub. For the broader picture on screen comfort, see the digital eye strain guide.

Keep brightness high, skip the deep flicker

Circadian Shield dims your display through a software overlay, so you can hold hardware brightness high and avoid the deep low-brightness PWM that drives the worst symptoms. It runs fully on your Mac. Free to try, no account.

Download CircadianShield

Frequently asked questions

Which phone camera setting works best for a flicker test?

Use slow-motion at the highest frame rate your phone offers, then look for rolling dark bands. If your phone has a pro or manual camera mode, setting a fast shutter speed such as 1/1000 second makes banding sharper even without slow-motion. Higher frame rates and faster shutters catch higher-frequency flicker.

Does a clean slow-motion clip prove my screen is flicker-free?

Not completely. A typical 240 fps clip reliably reveals low and mid-frequency PWM up to a few hundred Hz. Very high-frequency PWM above about 1 kHz may not band, but that high range is the kind most people tolerate anyway. For certainty, cross-check the measured frequency for your model on RTINGS or NotebookCheck.

What does the on-screen moving-bar pattern actually show?

It shows stroboscopic and eye-tracking artifacts. When you flick your eyes across a fast-moving bright bar, a pulsing display can chop it into separate copies instead of a smooth blur. That is a useful hint, but a software pattern cannot directly measure backlight PWM. The slow-motion camera method is the reliable test.

My camera shows no bands but I still get headaches. Why?

If the backlight is clean, the strain is probably coming from something else: focusing fatigue, glare, dry eyes, temporal dithering, variable refresh rate flicker, or color temperature. Work through those causes rather than assuming PWM. Our PWM hub explains how PWM headaches differ from general screen headaches.

Is the pencil test reliable?

It is a quick qualitative check, not a measurement. Wave a pen in front of a bright screen in a dark room. A steady display blurs it into a smooth streak, a pulsing one splits it into separate ghost images. Use it as a first hint, then confirm with the camera method.